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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.